Day 3 - The other end of Lewis and Clark's journey

Tuesday, June 13

Woke up in: Seaside, Oregon
Slept in: Nye Beach (Newport), Oregon
Traveled: 101 South
Notable eats: I tried the clam chowder at Doogers, a dish for which the establishment is apparently renowned. Although it contained much clam, I was otherwise underwhelmed. Snack: fresh cheddar cheese curd at the Tillamook Cheese Factory (yummy, and it squeaks! Er, the cheese, not the factory).
Miles: 171
Total mileage: 269
Photo Evidence: Part I, Part II

So just over a week ago I was sitting in traffic next to Charlottesville's Lewis and Clark statue, which marks the beginning of their trip west. That statue's portrayal of Sacajawea is always a hot button (but said portrayal is of course a product of its time when the statue was created about 90 years ago; check out the artist's original statement). So imagine my surprise when today I found the statue marking the other end of the trail. Sacajawea has been replaced in her position on Charlottesville's monument by Lewis's dog -- who, so far as we know from his journals, may not have ever made it to the coast! At least Sacajawea is accurately represented on the statue's base as the mother of an infant. But if you want to be incensed over inaccurate historical representation, you'll do even better in Seaside than in C'ville.

Up early for a phone call with an East Coast client, I sat with my phone and computer about 100 yards from the tideline and gave thanks for the modern technology that has allowed me the freedom of this trip. A swatch of rainbow hung in the clouds as the sun rose. This is the life!

Today was also a day of following intuition to find what I needed. The zipper on my bag broke; I wandered into a thrift shop that benefits the local SPCA and found an even better replacement within 10 seconds, for $2.50. I needed some good reading that would connect me with the West but also be comforting; in a used bookstore I again found within seconds a Pam Houston collection that includes her recounting of a weekend fishing with my favorite high school teacher. I wanted a satisfying touristy experience; I followed signs for the Tillamook Cheese Factory (as already detailed in my captioned Flickr photoset).

Finally, I chose my night's lodging based on a one-line writeup from a library travel book that I found mostly useless but decided to photocopy a page or two anyway just in case. The most pleasant surprise awaited me when I finally found the Sylvia Beach Hotel -- at first I thought it had everything I could possibly design in a perfect night's lodging except for cats. When I realized those were provided as well, I could have happily stayed the rest of the month.

When not on his travels, Dickens supervises hotel operations.

Shelley makes sure no butterflies disturb the guests.